Destroying unsold clothes is now illegal in the EU — and Portugal's factories stand to gain
Since 19 July, large companies are banned from destroying unsold clothing and footwear in the EU. In Portugal, ASAE will enforce the rule — and industry sees an opening.
The shredder is no longer an acceptable destination for entire collections. Since 19 July, large companies selling in the European Union are banned from destroying unsold clothing, accessories and footwear — one of the first practical rules to bite under the EU’s new ecodesign regulation, and it goes straight at one of fashion’s most awkward secrets.
What does the new EU rule actually ban?
Destroying unsold new clothing and footwear, plain and simple. For now the obligation covers large companies placing these products on the European market; medium-sized firms join in 2030, and micro and small businesses are exempt. Beyond the ban itself, brands must now report what happens to their surplus stock — how much is left over and where it goes. There are common-sense exceptions: dangerous, damaged or contaminated products, or goods tied up in legal restrictions, can still be pulled, and destruction is tolerated where donation was attempted and failed. The fine print is on the European Commission’s official page.
Who enforces the ban in Portugal?
ASAE, the food and economic safety authority, which will be checking that surplus goods head for donation or recovery rather than the incinerator. And this is where it gets interesting for the national economy: Portugal’s textile and footwear industries, long-time suppliers to Europe’s big brands, see the rule as an opening — more repair, more recycling, more nearshore production in the right quantities, fewer containers of leftovers. It would not be the first time Brussels tightened the screws and Portuguese business found a way to ride the wave, much as happened when it forced big tech to open Android up to rivals.
For consumers, the promise is double: less hidden waste, and more garments reaching social and discount channels. For brands, the message is blunt — whatever doesn’t sell can no longer quietly disappear. Now it has to show up in the accounts.
By Beatriz Mota
Image: Elkágyé / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
