Four days of onions, horses and street food in Portalegre
The Feira das Cebolas runs 10–13 September at Portalegre's Parque de Feiras e Exposições, with around 230 exhibitors, an equestrian gala, livestock auctions, late-night concerts and free shuttle buses.
Some fairs exist to sell things. Others exist because the town would not know what to do with the weekend otherwise. Portalegre’s Feira das Cebolas is the second kind, and it returns to the Parque de Feiras e Exposições on Thursday for four days.
Gates open at 6pm on Thursday with the official inauguration and a brass band, Farra Fanfarra, working its way through the pavilions. Closing time is 3am. That is the schedule of a town that plans to eat out and then stay out.
What is there
Around 230 exhibitors fill the site, spread across business, food and crafts, and equestrian pavilions — plus, as the name demands, a dedicated onion hall. There are livestock displays, an agricultural exhibition and cattle auctions, which is usually the point at which visitors from elsewhere realise this is a working fair rather than folklore staged for tourists.
Friday’s headline event is the equestrian gala, with Clémence Faivre and the Grupo Flamencura. There is also a bullfight, traditional restaurants and several street-food areas across the grounds.
The music
Thursday opens with Ana Trindade at 8.30pm on the agricultural stage, followed by Marina y Melissa’s Doya show at 10pm and Los Romeros at midnight, both on the main stage. Nininho Vaz Maia plays Friday, alongside the duo Mete Cá Sets. Bandidos do Cante close the fair on Sunday.
Getting there
Free return shuttle buses run to the site throughout the fair, which solves the problem of parking in Portalegre on a weekend like this one. The full programme and transport times are on the Portalegre council website.
If this weekend is out, September stays busy: FAVA returns to Loulé from 18 to 20 September and Chronosphere is back in Góis on the same dates.
Image: Sintegrity / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)