A Portuguese label closes Milan Fashion Week this season
The Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana's official calendar for the spring/summer 2027 women's season lists two Portuguese names with runway slots, both on Sunday 27 September. The last show on the grid, at 17:00, belongs to Miguel Vieira.
Milan Fashion Week opens on 22 September and closes on the 28th. Look at the official runway grid, though, and the last slot on it falls on Sunday the 27th, at 17:00, on Via Besana — and the name in that box is Miguel Vieira. Everything scheduled after it, on the Monday, is digital.
This does not come from a press release. It is on the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s Final Calendar, dated 8 September and updated on the 17th, the document the organisers publish themselves and keep correcting until the eve of the week.
Two runway shows, two presentations
The distinction matters more than it looks. Four Portuguese labels appear on the Milan calendar this season, but only two of them have a show: Marques’Almeida at 13:00 on Corso Monforte and Miguel Vieira at 17:00 at the Rotonda della Besana, both on the Sunday.
The other two, Pé de Chumbo and Davii, sit on the presentations calendar, on Saturday the 26th, from 10:00 to 12:30 at Corso di Porta Ticinese 95. A presentation is a different animal. The clothes are on display, press and buyers move through at their own pace, and there is no curtain up and no curtain down. It carries real weight, it costs a fraction of a show, and it is not on the same grid.
Two routes that look nothing alike
Marques’Almeida was founded in 2011 by Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, and is one of the very few Portuguese houses to have won the LVMH Prize. Miguel Vieira started in 1988, builds tailoring before he builds anything else, and has been a fixture of the Italian fashion weeks for years. Last July he had surgery for a third cancer and said he would be back at the atelier very soon; a 17:00 slot on Sunday says he is.
The Portuguese season does not stop in Italy. In Paris, De Pino shows on 5 October, and Portugal Fashion keeps a showroom in the Marais from the 2nd to the 4th — the same instinct to go where the buyers already are that shapes the events calendar back home.
Anyone minding times and addresses before booking a trip should go to the source: the official calendar is published as a PDF by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, and it changes right up to the last day.
By Lucy Bennett
Image: Miguel Vieira
